PSI Cosmetology Theory Exam Solutions Guide_2022.
Soft Water/ Rain water - Best for shampooing and allows shampoo to lather freely
Hard Water - Minerals that lessen the ability of the shampoo to lather
Purified
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PSI Cosmetology Theory Exam Solutions Guide_2022.
Soft Water/ Rain water - Best for shampooing and allows shampoo to lather freely
Hard Water - Minerals that lessen the ability of the shampoo to lather
Purified water/Deionized water - Main ingredient in shampoo
Surfactant - has two ends the HYDROPHILIC HEAD and LIPOPHILIC TAIL
Hydrophilic Head - Attracted to water
Lipophilic Tail - Attracted to dirts and oils
Acid Balanced Shampoo - pH of 4.5-5.5
Jheri Redding - first to introduce pH balanced shampoo in the 1960s
Clarifying Shampoo - acidic base to cut through buildup on the hair strand
Humectants - Most conditioners carry this. Promote retention of moisture
Instant conditioners - remain on the hair 1-5 minutes
Protein Conditoners - brown liquids and penetrate into the cortex to temporarily improve porosity and increase elasticity
Infraed Lamps - may be used with hair treatments and scalp tonics for 5 minutes
High Frequency Unit - used to normalize oily scalp conditioners! Also never should be used with tonics that contain alcohol
Base Control - position of the rod in relation to its base section
croquignole perm wrap - wrapped perpendicular to the scalp starting with the ends
Spiral Perm Wrap - Wound from the ends to scalp and rods hang vertical
Concave Rods - most common and have a smaller center circumference
Straight Rods - uniform circumference
Alkaline Permanent - softens and swell the hair which raises the cuticle. Developed in 1941
Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG) - main ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms
Alkaline Waves ( COLD WAVES) - process at room temp
Acid Perms - Main ingredient is glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
Exothermic perms - reaction that causes heat. contains hydrogen peroxide
Endothermic Perms - activated by outside heat source. True Acid perms are endothermic
Disulfide Bonds - if too many are broken the hair will become over processed and have a weak curl
What is the main ingredient in a neutralizer - Hydrogen Peroxide
Do not shampoo hair - 48 hours after a perm
Cuticle - outer most layer of the hair
Cortex - middle layer of the hair where all chemical processes take place
Melanin - Natural pigment located in the cortex
Peptide Bonds - called end bonds link together to form polypeptide chains. Should not be broken.
What are the three side bonds? - Disulfide, Salt,Hydrogen, Side/Cross
Disulfide Bonds - strognest. Must be broken when perming or relaxing the hair
Salt bonds - Weak physical side bonds that are easily broken by changes in pH
Hydrogen Bonds - broken by water or heat
EX: Wet Set
Hair Texture - Diameter of a single strand
Hair Density - number of strands of hair are on the head
Hair Porosity - Absorb mositure
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