Corrugations - Nail disorder - Horizontal wavy ridges caused by uneven growth due to
illness or injuries.
Furrows - Nail disorder - vertical lines down the nail plate caused by nutrition, injury or
illness.
Leuconchi
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Corrugations - Nail disorder - Horizontal wavy ridges caused by uneven growth due to
illness or injuries.
Furrows - Nail disorder - vertical lines down the nail plate caused by nutrition, injury or
illness.
Leuconchia - White spots on the nail caused by injury to the base of the nail
Onychorrhexis - Split or brittle nails caused by injury, careless filing, vitamin deficiencies,
illness, and frequent exposure to strong chemicals.
Hang Nails - Caused by dry cuticle and carlessness in removing the cuticle
Onychomycosis Unguium - Nail fungus caused by a parasite. very contagious
Onychocryptosis - Ingrown nail caused by filing the nail too much, or tight fitting shoes.
Verruca - Warts caused by infectious virus
Onycholysis - lifting of the nail without shedding
5 Basic Nail Shapes - squoval, round, oval, pointed, square
Toner - used on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors after decoloring
Conditioning filler - protein conditioner that will equalize porosity and fill the holes
Color filler - used to replace the missing primary colors
Oxidative - Demi- permenant and permenant color
Non-oxidative color - temporary - physical change only. Semi-permanent.
Double process blonde - decolorizing and toning
What affects lightener working time? - Melanin - the more there is the longer the process.
Scalp processes faster because of body heat
Lift - lightening by breaking up the melanin to decolorize hair
A+
Deposit - means that product only deposits color because it does not contain ammonia or
high alkalinity necessary to lift
developer - oxidizing agent H2O2 when mixed with ammonia it will break up the melanin
and give ability to lift or lighten
Semi-permanent color - non-oxidative, temporary color, stains cuticle, fades in each
shampoo.
Demi-permanent color - oxidative, deposit only, deepens or changes the tone
Permanent color - lightens and deposits at the same time. more alkaline ingredients,
penetrates the cortex, can't shampoo out
Primary colors - Red, Blue, Yellow
Brown - unequal combo of primary color
Black - Equal parts of primary colors
Warm tones - red, orange, yellow
Cool tones - blue, green, violet
Neutral tones - perfect combo of both cool and warm tones
Eumelanin - Brown to black pigments
Pheomelanin - Red to yellow pigments
Coarse texture - largest diameter, greatest amount of melanin, processing time and lift is
affected
medium texture - has a balance of melanin, typically no problems
Fine texture - smallest diameter, least amount of melanin, more susceptible to darker
drabber results, more prone to damage
Alkaline Wave - AKA cold waves - ammonium thioglycolate (thio and ammonia). ph - 9.0-
9.6, no tension, solution causes hair to swell, processes at RT
Acid Wave - AKA heat waves- glycerol monothioglycolate. ph - 7.8-8.2. will require heat to
speed processing
Endothermic - required added heat source
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